著名服装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世 你对他的生前创举了解多少?

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在中国人的记忆中,皮尔卡丹是耳熟能详的大品牌,它的创始人皮尔·卡丹是时尚界的传奇人物,他让高档时装走进老百姓的生活,他的商业帝国遍布世界各地,他的名字注定无法被遗忘。

French fashion designer Pierre Cardin poses in front of his 1954-1956-1957 fashion creations in his museum called “Past-Present-Future” in Paris November 12, 2014. REUTERS/Charles Platiau

Legendary French fashion designer Pierre Cardin has died at the age of 98, France’s Fine Arts Academy announced on Tuesday in a statement on Twitter.

法兰西艺术院周二(12月29日)在推特发布声明表示,法国传奇时装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世,终年98岁。

“The Perpetual Secretary, Laurent Petitgirard, and the members of the Academy of Fine Arts are deeply saddened to announce the death of their colleague Pierre Cardin. He had been elected on 12 February 1992 to the chair of Pierre Dux,” the Fine Arts Academy said.

法兰西艺术院称:“法兰西艺术院终身秘书长洛朗·珀蒂吉拉尔和艺术院成员沉痛宣布同事皮尔·卡丹去世的消息。他于1992年2月12日荣任法兰西艺术院院士。”

His creations adorned many stars of the day, among them Elizabeth Taylor, Barbra Streisand, Jeanne Moreau, Jackie Kennedy, Charlotte Rampling, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

皮尔·卡丹设计的服饰曾为许多当红明星增光添彩,其中包括伊丽莎白·泰勒、芭芭拉·史翠姗、让娜·莫罗、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、夏洛特·兰普林、甲壳虫乐队和滚石乐队。

Cardin was among the first designers to capitalize on the business side of fashion, becoming a household name thanks to powerful branding.

卡丹是最早投资商业化时装的设计师之一,并借助强大的品牌力量成为家喻户晓的人物。

He also broke with tradition through his futuristic designs — and by producing landmark unisex and ready-to-wear collections at a time when both were effectively unheard of.

他还曾打破传统,设计出未来主义风格时装,生产出标志性的中性化成衣系列,这两者在当时都是闻所未闻的。

Cardin was born in 1922 in San Biagio di Callalta, a small town in northeast Italy about 20 miles from Venice. He was born Pietro, but he became known as Pierre after his family relocated to France to escape fascism two years later.

1922年皮尔·卡丹出生于意大利东北部小镇圣比亚焦-迪卡拉尔塔,距离威尼斯约20英里(32千米)。他出生时名叫彼得罗,但两年后为逃避法西斯主义举家迁到法国后被改名为皮尔。

As a young man, his first steps into fashion coincided with a move to Paris, where he worked on the costumes of Jean Cocteau’s film version of “Beauty and the Beast.” In 1946, he was hired as a tailor by his subsequent mentor, Christian Dior, who had just opened his couture house in Paris.

年轻的皮尔·卡丹初入时尚界时恰逢他搬到巴黎,当时他为让·科克托拍摄的电影版《美女与野兽》设计服饰。1946年,他受雇于后来的导师克里斯汀·迪奥当裁缝,迪奥当时刚在巴黎开了自己的高级时装屋。

Four years later, at the age of 28, Cardin founded his own eponymous fashion brand, first designing theater costumes, then moving into haute couture in 1953.

四年后,28岁的卡丹以自己的名字创立了时装品牌,起先是设计戏服,然后在1953年开始进军高级时装界。

eponymous [ɪˈpɑːnɪməs]: adj. 以……的名字命名的

French designer Pierre Cardin poses with models at the end of his 2009 spring/summer and autumn/winter ready-to-wear fashion collection show in Theoule-sur-Mer, southern France, October 6, 2008. REUTERS/Eric Gaillard

皮尔·卡丹的时装创新

His breakout creation was the bubble dress — so called for the bubble-like shape of the area between the waist and the hemline — which he designed in 1954. It proved commercially successful worldwide, setting the stage for a string of fashion innovations.

皮尔·卡丹的突破性作品是1954年设计的泡泡裙,以腰部和下摆间的区域形似泡泡而得名。事实证明,这款泡泡裙在世界范围内创下了商业佳绩,为一系列时装创新奠定了基础。

Hoping to make designer clothing more accessible, he launched his first ready-to-wear collection at the Printemps department store in Paris in 1959, a move so scandalous that it got him expelled from the Chambre Syndicale, the body governing French haute couture (he would be reinstated shortly after, before leaving of his own accord in 1966).

著名服装设计师皮尔·卡丹去世 你对他的生前创举了解多少?

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